How to make an antique window wedding menu display #Food DIY#decor#menu#tutorial March 13 2014 | Guest post by christi For our menus, rather than printing anything out, my future husband and I bought antique windows to display the bar and dinner menus. I am super super-pleased with how well this turned out. So I thought I'd share the step-by-step method… Step 1: Find antique windows, then purchase and take home said windows, once you convince your partner that it's a good idea. (This might involve bribery.) Step 2: Realize the glass is too thin and fragile to work with. Have your partner point out that the glass is easily replaceable. Then get plexiglass pieces cut to size. Related Post Turn old windows into your wedding program Ever take a walk through your neighborhood and notice old window panes laying on the curb? After Mike and Margot's backyard wedding, you might be... Read more Step 3: Remove the old glass from the frames. NOTE: pay attention to how the old glass is sealed into the frame. You will likely need to duplicate this when you replace the glass. Step 4: Print various font examples and begin working on the font style and layout. Use a dry erase marker to approximate size and placement of words. Step 5: Carefully re-write the menus using Sharpie oil-based paint markers in various colors. I used black, silver, and white, because those matched most easily with the rest of my decor, and were easily visible on the plexiglass. Add little cute pictures because you think it "needs something." Allow to dry for 24-48 hours. Helpful tip: if you mess it up, you can wipe it off with alcohol wipes and start over! Step 6: It is now time to prep the frames to receive new glass. PLEASE ensure that you are using a heavy-duty mask and gloves when working with antique windows, as there is a high probability you will be handling lead-containing paint. I stole acquired N95 masks from work — they are used to prevent the spread of tuberculosis, so I figured paint dust wouldn't get through. I wore gardening gloves for the sanding, and regular rubber gloves to apply sealant. Use a wire brush to remove all dirt, dust, old insect nests (true story), and all other large particles and debris. Lightly sand the entire frame, to remove flecks of paint, smooth rough edges, etc. You aren't trying to sand them down entirely — just make them smooth and clean so that you can seal them. Wash the frames with mild soap and water. Again, just for dirt removal. Allow them to dry completely before the next step. Step 7: Time to seal the frames. You don't want to be handling, or having others handle, potential lead-containing paint. You also want to maintain the integrity of the original paint and character of the frame — that's why you bought it! Sealing it with a clear coat will do all of this. Pick a clear coat of your choice — I used a satin finish, so it wasn't shiny, but also not quite matte. I used a spray polyurethane because I've worked with it before, I know how to use it, and spray is easier than something you have to apply with a brush. I imagine you could use just about anything that performs basically the same function. I used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. Step 8: Spray/paint the frames as directed on the sealant of your choice. I applied three coats, with the recommended dry time, to each side of both frames. It took essentially the entire can to do. I placed them on cardboard boxes to spray. Allow them to dry for the recommended drying time. I left mine for 48 hours, mostly because I got busy. Step 9: Time to place the glass into the frames, and seal it so it will stay. I used Dap 18285 Dynaflex 230 Premium Indoor Outdoor Sealant. I chose it because it went on white, then dried clear, so I could ensure I had a nice thick seam, but it wouldn't show once it cured. Step 10: Place the windows in the frame, lining them up appropriately before you start sealing. My windows had slight inconsistencies due to age-related warping, etc, so it was important that I made sure there were no gaps between the glass and the frame at any point before I started. You will need to seal the windows so they don't fall out, so make sure you pay attention to where the edge is compared to where you seal. For example one of my windows was made so that the glass was behind the lip, and then I sealed behind the glass. The other window was made so that the glass was in front of the lip, and then I sealed in front of the glass. When you are working with the windows, you will see what I mean. Step 11: Apply the sealant based on the manufacturer's instructions, using a nice thick seam and paying special attention to the corners, then smooth it out. There are tools for this, but I just used my fingers. Damp paper towels will remove whatever excess you smear around. Step 12: Allow to cure per the manufacturer's instructions. I left my windows in a cool, dry place for about 48 hours. Then you're done! Step 15: Display them at your wedding! Reporter Name * Reporter Email * Original text Enter the original text here. Edited text* Enter your suggested copyedit here. Notes You can add a note for the editor here. * Required information. Fix Typo christi I'm a 27 year old RN in Houston. I have an almost six-year-old little girl from a previous relationship. I like to read, shop, craft (especially quilting) and cook. PREVIOUS This Beetlejuice wedding decor is shrinking my head in amazement NEXT Maryska & Chris' lanterns, lights, and top hats wedding Show/Hide comments [ 8 ] More detailed method for steps four and five: Print your fonts and lettering out and place the plexiglass on top of them. Trace them! 9 agree Reply I love, love, love this idea! 1 agrees Reply This is great! My normal handwriting is a bit schitzo (cursive and block lettering in a single word). Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial! I hadn't even considered this as an option to do the cool window menu thing before, since I figured I'd muck it up with my writing style! LOL 2 agree Reply I think it's charming, but … if I can offer some constructive criticism…it could be difficult to read. Which is fine if all your friends and relatives have great vision! My mom's vision isn't so hot – she has macular degeneration – so I am working to have all wedding invites, signs, web pages, etc. really easy to read. If I was going to make one of these, and have it easy to read for those who have vision impariment, I would: – Choose 3 clear fonts and stick to them. – Use a one-column list. – Pose the finished "window" against a solid color background, preferably a dark, vivid color like deep red or royal blue. Reply My brother is actually legally blind, and I am hearing impaired, so I did have printed menus available at the bar and the buffet that were in large, clear type. They just weren't fun and pretty, so I don't have any photos to share. Additionally our bar and buffet were both extremely well-staffed (3-4 bartenders and 5-7 buffet servers) with additional servers available to assist guests as needed as. My brother uses a service animal as well, so a server actually assisted him in both areas and then took his plate and drinks to his seat for him so he would be able to navigate more easily. Reply How interesting! I love DIY tips! 🙂 Reply I also did this, but instead had two windows for our seating chart. Whats great is afterwards I kept them as is and then taped some of our wedding photos in front of the text and then hung them as art in our house. That way I can remember who was there as well as display our photo's in a funky way. 1 agrees Reply I have done something similar on a smaller scale by taking the backing out of a picture frame; what's left is glass and the frame, which achieves a similar look. Reply Join the conversation Cancel Reply Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Sign me up for your offbeat awesomeness newsletter! No-drama comment policy Part of what makes the Offbeat Empire different is our commitment to civil, constructive commenting. Make sure you're familiar with our no-drama comment policy. 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